Xeno3Pixel instructions

For a video guide on how to use Xeno3Pixel, please click here

This video here demonstrates how to remove the SD card.

To charge the saber:

Use only the charging cable/battery charger provided. You will need to utilise an AC adapter rated at 5V and no more than 2Amps of output. Plug in the charging cable provided and you’ll hear the charger sound out the word “charging”. If there is a switch with an LED on it, this LED will pulse during charging. When charging is complete, the saber will sound out the word “ready”.

If the saber comes with a removable battery and seperate battery charger, the LED on the charger will be red during charging, and green when complete. Blue indicates the battery is either not making good contact with the pins in the charger, or the battery has failed.

(Do not use smart chargers as many of them switch voltages and can damage the electronics of your saber. any use of charging equipment above the specifications above can cause catastrophic damage to the electronics in the saber. never use the saber while it’s plugged into the charger)

To wake the saber from sleep mode:

Hold down power button for 2 seconds. A sound will play, and the light ring around the power button will illuminate. The saber is now “awake”.

Awake mode operation:

1. Pressing the power button will turn the blade on and activate sounds and effects (if no sound, the saber is likely in “mute mode” – see details below)

2. Holding the button down briefly (the light around the button will flash once) will cycle the saber through volume effects. You will hear a vocal confirmation each time you do this (“volume high, volume low, mute”)

3. Holding the button down slightly longer (the light around the button will flash twice) will cycle the saber through different blade effects. Once again, you will hear a vocal confirmation (“pulse, rainbow blade, unstable, fire blade, steady,”)

4. Holding the button down slightly longer again (the light around the button will flash three times) will cycle the saber through different blade MODES and preon effects. Once again, you will hear a vocal confirmation such as “broken igntion, phaser ignition, warp ignition, standard mode”. Please be aware the saber will repeat “broken ignition” in place of modes such as velocity, ghost and blaster blade if they are disabled in the config.ini file on the SD card.

Please take note that some people are sensitive to bright and flashing lights. Always be aware of who is around you when you are using your saber, and whether they are photosensitive

5.Holding down the button longer than this will cycle through the various soundfonts. There are 30+ soundfonts, and each time the saber cycles you will hear a vocal confirmation (unless the saber is muted)

6. Holding the button for 10 seconds will put the saber into sleep mode. If the saber sits idle for 10 minutes it will automatically enter sleep mode.

Gesture control

1.  By default, swing ignition is turned on in the config. Swing the saber quickly to ignite (can be disabled in config.ini)

2. Holding the blade upwards and twisting clockwise will activate the blade (can be deactivated in config.ini)

3. Holding the blade downwards and twisting anti clockwise will cycle soundfonts

4. Holding the blade downwards and twisting clockwise will activate the blade

5. Holding the blade level and thrusting the saber forward will ignite the saber (can be disabled in config.ini)

6. Holding the blade level and suddenly pulling towards yourself and then forwards will turn the blade off.

Please note that almost all gestures can be enabled and disabled via the config.ini file in the “set” folder on the sd card

When the blade is lit, the power button operates in the following way:

1. Tap – blaster deflection

2. Hold the button for approximately 0.5 second, button LED flashes once, then release = Saber blade “tip drag effect” (must set correct blade length in the config file)

3. Hold the button for approximately 1 second, button LED flashes twice, then release to cycle blade colors. Once a desired color is reached, tap the button again to set the color

4. Holding the button for approximately 1.5 seconds powers off the blade.

5. Hold the button and clash the saber to make it “lockup” the blade. Tap again to release the lock.

Proffie instructions

Proffieboard Saber and Proffieboard Kit instructions

please note all proffie kits and hilts must use no more than a 5v, 2a charger to charge the electronics – whether you are using a usb cable to charge the hilt, or a removable battery style charger. use only the cable or battery charger provided (or an appropriate
battery charger that suits the specs written on the cell) in conjunction with a dc charger rated as per the specs above. failure to do so
will cause damage to the board and/or battery, and void your warranty.

Never use the saber while it is plugged into the charger.

Please be aware that the proffie kits and hilts with built in 2.1mm round recharge ports do not have a battery charging indicator.

For a single button proffieboard configuration:

Video guide for proffie single button functions here

1. Activate Muted – double click and hold while OFF
2. Activate – short click while OFF
3. Play/Stop Music – double click while OFF
4. Turn off blade – hold and wait till blade is off while ON
5. Next Preset – hold and release while OFF
6. Prev Preset – hold and wait while OFF
7. Lockup – hold + hit clash while ON
8. Stab – thrust forward clash while ON
9. Lightning Block – double click and hold while ON
10. Melt – hold + thust forward clash while ON
11. Drag – hold + hit clash while ON pointing the blade tip down
12. Blaster Blocks – short click/double click/triple click while on
13. Multi-Blast – hold while swinging for one second and release
    • * to trigger blaster block, swing saber while in multi-blast mode
    • * to exit, hold while swinging for one second and release
14. Battle Mode – triple-click and hold while on
15. Force Effects – hold + twist the hilt while ON (while pointing up)
16. Color Change mode – hold + twist the hilt while ON (pointing down)
17. Enter Volume – Menu hold + clash while OFF
18. Volume UP – hold and release while in Volume Menu
19. Volume DOWN – click while in Volume Menu
20. Exit Volume Menu – Menu hold + clash while OFF
21. Battery Level – triple click while OFF

For a dual button proffieboard configuration

1. Activate Muted -fast double click Activation button while OFF
2. Activate blade – short click Activation button while OFF
3. Play/Stop Music – hold 1 second and release Activation button while OFF or ON
4. Turn the blade off – hold and wait till blade is off while ON
5. Next Preset – short click AUX button while OFF
6. Previous Preset – hold AUX and click Activation button while OFF
7. Lockup – hold AUX button while ON
8. Drag – hold AUX button while ON pointing the blade tip down
9. Blaster Blocks – short click AUX button while ON
10. Force Effects – short click Activation button while ON
11. Enter Color Change mode – hold AUX and click Activation button while ON
12. Confirm selected color in Color Change mode – hold the button until confirmation sound
13. Melt – hold AUX (or Activation) button + perform stab action while ON
14. Lightning Block – hold Activation button + short click AUX button while ON
15. Enter Multi-Block mode – swing + hold the button for 1 second and release while ON (now swing the saber, blaster blocks will trigger automatically)
16. Exit Multi-Block mode – short click AUX button while ON

Instruction Guides

Ecoswing instructions

New to sabers? Check out our handy instructions/tips videos here!

To charge the saber:

Use only the charging cable/battery charger provided. You will need to utilise an AC adapter rated at 5V and no more than 2Amps of output. Plug in the charging cable provided and you’ll hear the charger sound out the word “charging”. If there is a switch with an LED on it, this LED will pulse during charging. When charging is complete, the saber will sound out the word”ready”.

If the saber comes with a removable battery and seperate battery charger, the LED on the charger will be red during charging, and green when complete. Blue indicates the battery is either not making good contact with the pins in the charger, or the battery has failed.

(Do not use smart chargers as many of them switch voltages and can damage the electronics of your saber. any use of charging equipment above the specifications above can cause catastrophic damage to the electronics in the saber. never use the saber while it’s plugged into the charger)

To wake the saber from sleep mode:

1.Hold down power button for 1 second. A sound will play, and the light ring around the power button will illuminate. The saber is now “awake”.

Awake mode operation:

1. Pressing the power button will turn the blade on and activate sounds and effects (if no sound, the saber is likely in “mute mode” – see details below)

2. Holding the button down briefly (the light around the button will flash once) will cycle the saber through volume effects. You will hear a vocal confirmation each time you do this (“loud sound, softer sound, no sound”)

3. Holding the button down slightly longer (the light around the button will flash twice) will cycle the saber through different blade effects. Once again, you will hear a vocal confirmation (“stable, pulse, unstable”)

Please take note that some people are sensitive to bright and flashing lights. Always be aware of who is around you when you are using your saber, and whether they are photosensitive

4. Holding the button down longer (the light around the button will flash three times) will start music playing in the saber. Each time you hold down the button for the three flashes, it will cycle to a new song, until it has cycled through all 5 and
the saber will then stop playing music. Please note that this is currently the only way to stop the music playing, and we have suggested that the manufacturer changes this function in future models)

5. Holding down the button longer than this will cycle through the various soundfonts. There are 9 soundfonts, and each time the saber cycles you will hear a vocal confirmation (unless the saber is muted)

6. Holding the button for 10 seconds will put the saber into sleep mode. If the saber sits idle for 10 minutes it will automatically enter sleep mode.

When the blade is lit, the power button operates in the following way:

1. Tap – blaster deflection

2. Hold the button for approximately 0.5 second, button LED flashes once, then release = Saber blade “lock-up” (flickering) effect

3. Hold the button for approximately 1 second, button LED flashes twice, then release to cycle blade colors. Once a desired color is reached, tap the button again to set the color

4. Holding the button for approximately 1.5 seconds powers off the blade.

Xenopixel instructions

For a video guide on how to use Xeno, please click here

In the newer Xeno boards, the SD card holder has been changed from a slide out style to a hinged style (if it looks like there’s no space to slide the card out, then you have one of the newer ones!)

This video here demonstrates how to remove the SD card.

To charge the saber:

Use only the charging cable/battery charger provided. You will need to utilise an AC adapter rated at 5V and no more than 2Amps of output. Plug in the charging cable provided and you’ll hear the charger sound out the word “charging”. If there is a switch with an LED on it, this LED will pulse during charging. When charging is complete, the saber will sound out the word”ready”.

If the saber comes with a removable battery and seperate battery charger, the LED on the charger will be red during charging, and green when complete. Blue indicates the battery is either not making good contact with the pins in the charger, or the battery has failed.

(Do not use smart chargers as many of them switch voltages and can damage the electronics of your saber. any use of charging equipment above the specifications above can cause catastrophic damage to the electronics in the saber. never use the saber while it’s plugged into the charger)

To wake the saber from sleep mode:

Hold down power button for 2 seconds. A sound will play, and the light ring around the power button will illuminate. The saber is now “awake”.

Awake mode operation:

1. Pressing the power button will turn the blade on and activate sounds and effects (if no sound, the saber is likely in “mute mode” – see details below)

2. Holding the button down briefly (the light around the button will flash once) will cycle the saber through volume effects.You will hear a vocal confirmation each time you do this (“volume high, volume low, mute”)

3. Holding the button down slightly longer (the light around the button will flash twice) will cycle the saber through different blade effects. Once again, you will hear a vocal confirmation (“pulse, rainbow blade, unstable, fire blade, steady,”)

4. Holding the button down slightly longer again (the light around the button will flash three timese) will cycle the saber through different blade MODES. Once again, you will hear a vocal confirmation (“standard blade, blaster blade, ghost blade, and various chime sounds indicate a new mode”)

Please take note that some people are sensitive to bright and flashing lights. Always be aware of who is around you when you are using your saber, and whether they are photosensitive

5.Holding down the button longer than this will cycle through the various soundfonts. There are 9 soundfonts, and each time the saber cycles you will hear a vocal confirmation (unless the saber is muted)

6. Holding the button for 10 seconds will put the saber into sleep mode. If the saber sits idle for 10 minutes it will automatically enter sleep mode.

Gesture controls

1. Holding the blade upwards and twisting clockwise (looking downwards) will play music – not all Xeno versions have a music track however, it can be added by putting a wav file into the font directory and calling it track (1).wav

2. Holding the blade upwards and twisting anticlockwise will activate the blade

3. Holding the blade downwards and twisting clockwise (looking downwards) will cycle fonts

4. Holding the blade downwards and twisting anticlockwise will activate the blade

5. Holding the blade level and thrusting the saber forward will ignite the saber

6. Holding the blade level and suddenly pulling towards yourself and then forwards will turn the blade off.

Please note that gestures can be enabled and disabled via the config.ini file in the “set” folder on the sd card

When the blade is lit, the power button operates in the following way:

1. Tap – blaster deflection

2. Hold the button for approximately 0.5 second, button LED flashes once, then release = Saber blade “tip drag effect” (must set correct blade length in the config file)

3. Hold the button for approximately 1 second, button LED flashes twice, then release to cycle blade colors. Once a desired color is reached, tap the button again to set the color

4. Holding the button for approximately 1.5 seconds powers off the blade.

5. Hold the button and clash the saber to make it “lockup” the blade.

You can find the latest firmware download and a PDF manual here. Please read all the instructions before updating firmware!!

Trouble Shooting

My saber won’t charge?

There can be a number of reasons for the saber not charging, and a lot of this is covered in our videos at
https://www.facebook.com/watch/508313572839417/1042870469519715

The first things to check are all of the obvious ones:

• Is the charging cable or battery charger plugged into the correct type of AC adapter? (5V, maximum 2Amps)
• Is the USB cable plugged snuggly into both the AC adapter and the saber?
• Have you tried another AC adapter?

If you’ve done these steps, the next thing to check is if the battery is seated correctly in the saber. To do this, open the grip section (in most hilts this is just a matter of unscrewing it but reach out to us if you’re unsure, or check the product page for a deconstruction video link, or check our products video library on Facebook) and inspect if the battery is in place correctly.

If it appears to be seated correctly, remove the battery by “knocking” the hilt against your hand to tap the battery out (do not use anything to pry the battery out).

Check the condition of the battery contacts. Are they pushed in too flat to make good contact with the battery while it is installed? You can gently bend them outwards to fix this.

Reinstall the battery, paying attention to the polarity of the battery (+ and – are marked on both the battery and the chassis.

If none of this has fixed the problem, please reach out to us at sales@aussabers.com.au or via our Facebook page.

My saber won’t turn on?

The first thing to check is if the saber charges. If it appears to charge normally (plug saber in, saber will make sound “charging”), then please leave it on charge for at least 3o minutes.

If you are sure it’s charged, but still won’t turn on – refer firstly to our helpful tips at https://www.facebook.com/watch/508313572839417/1042870469519715

• Check if the battery is charged.
• Check that the battery is inserted correctly and seated well against the battery contacts. To do this, unscrew the grip and inspect the battery.
• Remove the battery and reinstall. To do this, when the grip is removed just tap the saber against your palm to “knock” the battery out. Reinsert, paying attention to the polarity (+ and – are marked on both the battery and the chassis)
• If the battery contacts appear to be flattened and not making good contact with the battery, remove the battery as above and gently bend the contacts back upwards, then reinstall the battery – once again paying attention to the battery polarity.
• If all of these steps fail, please reach out to us at sales@aussabers.com.au or via our Facebook page.

The clash sensitivity seems a bit high?

This is normally caused by too much vibration inside the hilt, or if the chassis is too loose and is knocking against the inside of the walls.

It can also be a symptom of low charge.

• Ensure the saber is charged fully. Turn off (back into standby) and restart.
• Failing that, unscrew the grip of the saber and visually inspect the electronics. If it feels like it “wobbles” inside the hilt, ensure it is secured in the switch section and that the screws there are tight (usually either side of the switch and rechargeport and/or on the back of the switch section)
• If it still seems to be knocking the inside of the hilt, you can wrap a single layer of thin electrical tape around the speaker section. This achieves two things: firstly, it minimizes phantom clashes due to speaker vibration. Secondly, it makes the electronic kit tighter inside the saber itself. The tolerances for this gap are very very low so you don’t need to use much tape!

With electronic options like Xenopixel, Proffie and Golden Harvest, it is possible to adjust the sensitivity via the configuration files. For Xeno, check out our tips and instructions video page on Facebook for some help with configuring. For Proffie, check out the Rebel Armory forums (and the opensource proffie support group on FB), and for Golden Harvest, you’ll find how to adjust your config in the manual provided on the SD card with every Golden Harvest saber or kit!

If you are still having problems, please message us at sales@aussabers.com.au, or via our Facebook page.

The sound is crackling or dropping out?

This is usually either low charge, or a faulty speaker.

• To test, firstly charge the saber fully. Generally if you are losing sounds (hum disappears or clash/swing disappears) it is related to low voltage from the battery.
• Uninstalling the battery and reinstalling it can sometimes “reset” the board to fix this options as well. Simply unscrew the grip, tap the hilt against your hand to “knock” the battery out and reinstall, paying attention to the polarity of the battery.
• Try adjusting the volume control (refer to the instructions specific to your saber electronics). Some fonts seem to perform better at lower volumes.

If this troubleshooting does not solve the problem, please reach out to us at sales@aussabers.com.au or message our Facebook page.

When I plug the charger in, saber says “charging” then immediately “ready” as if it’s fully charged, but it still won’t power on

This is because the battery isn’t being detected by the board.

The video tips at https://www.facebook.com/watch/508313572839417/1042870469519715 will assist greatly with troubleshooting this issue.

• Unscrew the hilt grip and inspect the battery. Does it make good contact with the battery contacts in the electronics?
• Remove the battery by tapping the hilt against your hand to “knock” the battery out (do not use implements to pry it out as you risk damaging the battery, electronics or yourself).
• Gently bend the battery contacts outwards so they are less flat inside the chassis.
• Reinstall the battery, paying attention to the polarity (+ and – are marked on both the battery and the chassis)
• Gently bend the battery contacts outwards so they are less flat inside the chassis.
• Attempt to charge again.

If these steps do not work, please contact us at sales@aussaber.com.au or message us at our Facebook page.

My saber makes a screeching sound when plugged in to charge

This is a rare phenomenon that we sometimes hear of that affected the v8 eco boards. Luckily, it is just a bit of feedback from the charging process and is easily solved.

While the saber is plugged in charging, simply turn it on and then off again. This shuts the sound off.

The screech or buzz you hear won’t harm the saber at all, nor will it prevent the saber charging – it’s just a bit annoying!

I’ve edited my proffie config and now my sound is glitching?

This is a known issue with the motion sensor in LGT/Darkwolf Proffies produced in early 2021. Simply update your proffie OS to 5.9 or above and this will update the motion sensor files that determine the swing/clash sound output.

My Xenopixel Saber blade is acting erratically or not switching on properly

This is likely due to the blade effect or blade style setting being on Ghost Blade or Blaster Blade mode. Refer to your instructions to change the blade mode, or check out this handy video to learn all about your Xeno features and how to use them.

Saber safety

Safety information for sabers (PLEASE NOTE THIS IS A GENERAL GUIDE ONLY)

• This saber is NOT A TOY. Dueling sabers are designed and built to withstand great force. Non-duelling sabers (thin necks and decorative models), although not suitable for great impact, still have very hard parts on both the hilt and polycarbonate blade. Do not underestimate how much potential damage an errantly or purposefully swung polycarbonate blade can do!
• Any impact may cause damage or injury. Use ONLY under competent adult supervision. Proper protective equipment should be worn at all times in duelling situations.
• It is recommended that any minor under 16 years of age using this equipment is supervised by an adult. This equipment is absolutely unsuitable for use by any child under the age of 14.
• Those who suffer from any sort of light sensitivity should be aware that the brightness and/or flickering effects from this device may trigger a reaction. Please consult with your medical practitioner before use if you have any concerns. Discontinue use immediately if you suffer any symptoms of photosensitivity or similar during operation.
• LED lights are EXTREMELY bright and have been known to cause eye damage. NEVER, under any circumstances look directly into the LED unit with the blade removed while saber is on, or shine the light into the eyes of another person or any animal!
• Never under ANY circumstances use a saber against an unprotected or unaware person, or any animal ever!
• Before any twirling or combat usage, ALWAYS ensure that the blade is fastened securely to the hilt using the retention screws. Refer to the specific instructions for your particular model. If you are in any way unsure of how to secure the blade, do not use the saber – reach out to us so that we can guide you on the correct way to secure the polycarbonate blade. Please also ensure that the proposed area of use is for free of any obstructions or hazards, and that any other individuals (and animals) are at a safe distance.
• Polycarbonate is extremely strong and durable. Only make contact with materials capable of bearing blunt force. Be very aware of what you strike with your saber as you may cause damage or injury to whatever or whomever the blade makes contact with.
• Never attempt to make contact with the face or eyes! Safety gear must be worn when duelling! Safety gear includes gloves, appropriate combat-rated face/head shield and padding. Please note that this is not an exhaustive list. It is intended as a minimum consideration rather than a prerequisite. Users are advised to take additional precautions as necessary to ensure safe use of the saber.
• Only use the provided USB cable to charge this saber! Failure to do so will void warranty. Only use a 5v, 1 – 2 amp AC adapter (mobile phone/tablet chargers are mostly ideal but always check the specs on them first!). Exceeding this voltage/amperage may cause catastrophic damage to the saber and void your warranty!! Never use the saber while it is plugged into the charger!!!
• Sabers are electrical products. Never get the saber wet, or use it in (or near) water/wet conditions. If the saber gets wet, discontinue using the saber immediately.

• Do not use this saber while under the effects of alcohol or any other drugs that may affect the user’s mental state.

The fine print.

AusSabers accepts no responsibility for any damage or injury to people or property from the use of this saber. See our Terms & Conditions, available at [insert URL] for more information. Personal responsibility is expected of anyone who uses this device, in accordance with the safety guidelines here.

Please note that this document is given as general advice on how to use the saber safely – it is expected that you will use the saber in the safest manner possible in any given situation, whether anticipated in this document or otherwise.

Competent supervision is required for any persons using this device. Safe weapons handling training is advised.

This is a battery operated, mains power recharged electrical device. Common sense electrical safety precautions should be observed at all times.

Li-ion batteries are known to degrade over time. When this occurs there is a possibility, however unlikely, that they may combust due to rupture or leak. Do not overcharge battery for extended periods. If device leaks or fails to charge, cease usage immediately and contact AusSabers for assistance.

In this policy, “this saber” and “this device” includes accessories and related equipment where applicable.

AusSabers contact information

We can be contacted at via our Facebook page at www.facebook.com/AusSabersStore or via email at sales@aussabers.com.au.

This Saber Safety policy forms part of our Terms & Conditions, located at https://aussabers.com.au/terms-and-conditions/

FAQs

I’m new to sabers and don’t know where to begin. Where can I get help?

Everyone has to start somewhere in this wonderful hobby. Don’t worry, we’ve got you covered with a beginners guide
video series, located right here!

What blade colours do you offer?

All of our sabers have the ability to change the LED/Blade colours on the fly. This means you can literally change your
saber blade colour from the saber function button. Please refer to the instruction cards, or our instruction guide here
https://aussabers.com.au/instructions/ to learn how!

Do your sabers have sound?

All of our sabers have sound, and can be muted if required.

In addition, all of the sabers have MULTIPLE sound sets, or “soundfonts” – meaning that you can alter how the saber
sounds. In the Proffieboard and XenoPixel based sabers, you can even add to the soundfonts built in.

What are “Sound Fonts”?

Sound fonts are maybe best thought of as “sets” of sounds.

Each font has a unique ignition, hum, swing, clash and lockup sound.

So when you hear someone refer to a saber having 9 fonts, you have 9 unique sets, each with their own individual traits.

What sound fonts do your sabers come with?

Please note these sound fonts are subject to change at any time

ECOSWING V2:

Serenity, The Second, Dark Ages, The DarkSword, The Dark Lord, The Fallen, The Count, The High Ground, Rage Knight, Princess, Scavenger, Emperor

XENOPIXEL:

Kylo, Rey, DarkSword, The Cunning Warrior, Darth Maul, Taron, Ben, Dark Rey, Tyranus, The Bold One, Darkness, The Return, Cal, Royalty, Rev, Star Killer, Acension, Rey 3, Rey 2, The Last, Luke, Codex of Light, Cyber Terror, Dark Ages, Hatred, Idyll, Serenity, The Champion, The Dark Lord Revisited, The Learner, The Second, The Teacher, Whispers of Power, Sailor

GOLDEN HARVEST V3:

The list of soundfonts on GH is: Balance, Psy-Borg, Daddy Issues Complete, Guardian, Cryo Carbon, Peace, Violence, Son of Darkness, The Eternal Prince, The Phantom, The Shadow, Shadows, Dark Harvest, The Classic Villain, Energy Pike, Knighthood, KRossguard, Final Steps, Darksaber, Ascension, Crimson Menace, Traveler, Young Solo, Empress, Duke, The Bold One, Rogue Commander, Darkness, Graflex, Fallen Order, General, Dark Revan, Starkiller, Defiance, Rainbow, Codex of Light, Cyber Terror, Dark Ages, Hatred, Idyll, Serenity, The Champion, The Dark Lord Revisited, The Learner, The Second, The Teacher, Whispers of Power

PROFFIE:

KRossguardv3, Final Steps, DarkSword, Ascension, Maul, Taron, Ben, Empress, Count, The Bold One, Rogue Commander, Darkness, Graflex, Fallen, General, Rev, Star Killer, Spectrum, Defiance

What’s the difference between Eco/EcoSwing, XenoPixel and
Proffie in your sabers and saber kits/boards?

New to sabers? Check out our handy tips and info videos here!

Eco (no longer available as of August 2021) and EcoSwing are very similar to one another: Both have 9 sound fonts, both
have colour changing LED modules in the hilt to select your blade colour. Both are rechargeable. Both respond to motion
and clash.

The biggest difference is HOW they respond to motion.

In the older Eco electronics, the saber will play a “swing” sound when you move the hilt. Regardless of whether you move it
quickly or slowly, long or short, it will play the same sound.

In EcoSwing, the swing sound will vary depending on how you swing it. If you swing the saber sharp and short, it will play a
short swing sound. Swing it in a long arc, it will make a long swing sound.

In short, EcoSwing is the far more accurate and authentic sounding version.

Eco and EcoSwing electronics both feature a “base lit LED” configuration; that meaning, the LED that lights the blade is
located inside the hilt and shines up into a hollow blade, and diffused by the film on the inner walls of the blade.

XenoPixel is a newly designed, entirely unique board from LGT (our wholesale partner).

The best way to think of these electronics is, imagine and EcoSwing install but with a ‘pixel blade. That’s essentially what it
was designed to be. You’ve still got “smoothswing”, colour changing, lots of fonts to choose from and all of those amazing
things that we have in all of our sabers.

One key difference to EcosSwing is that you can add new fonts to Xeno – something you can’t do with the EcoSwing setup.
What’s more, unlike Proffie where it’s a much more complicated system, adding fonts is a matter of just putting them on
the SD card and naming the files in the right way. There’s a video here explaining how here

Proffie is an entirely different level.

Unlike Eco and EcoSwing, which come preconfigured and cannot be altered (beyond selecting one of the built in sound
fonts or changing your blade colour), Proffieboards are fully customisable – so long as you have the programming
knowledge to do it. The options are nearly limitless.

In addition, the proffieboard based sabers we sell are all ‘pixel blade compatible which means the LEDs lighting the blade
are inside the blade (in eco/ecoswing the blade is hollow and lit by a single LED inside the hilt)

All of our Proffieboard sabers (and Proffie kits and standalone Proffie boards) come with a heap of extra sound fonts and
blade effects built in, but if that’s not enough for you, you can alter those and add to them. Sound fonts can be found for
purchase via various soundfont sellers, and there is a heap of support online for learning how to program a Proffieboard.

Be aware that programming a board is not for the feint-hearted, and we would strongly suggest starting on the open source
Proffieboard groups on Facebook, as well as looking up Proffieboard videos on YouTube.

What’s EcoSwing?

Ecoswing is the entry level electronics installation option for sabers in our shop. Featuring an RGB colour changing LED inside the hilt, this electronics option has 9 (ecoswing v1) or 12 (ecoswing v2) soundfonts built in. You can select from three built in volume levels (loud, soft, mute), three blade effects (stable, unstable, pulse) and, in the V2 Ecoswing, you even have motion controls for ignition and cycling through soundfonts.

Unlike the Xeno, Proffie and GH options, you cannot add more sounds or bladestyles to EcoSwing hilts – everything that’s built into them is stock standard from the factory, and cannot be altered.

In addition, the LED is located inside the hilt, not the blade – so you won’t get that cool scrolling up/down effect when igniting the blade.

So why Ecoswing? Well it’s the simplest electronics install we offer, which makes it a lot more suitable for a budget option. It’s also the only duel ready installation option we offer (though this does depend greatly on the hilt as well). Because the LED is inside the hilt and not a series of strips inside the blade, the blade is hollow -this makes it a much lighter option for spinning around.

If you’re looking for something that is visually and audibly better, check out the XenoPixel, Proffie or GHV3 installed options.

What’s Golden Harvest (GHV3)?

Golden Harvest V3 (GHV3) is one of the top end sound boards available in the market today.

Like Xeno, you can easily add more soundfonts to the already extensive list of them built in, and you can even configure the saber to set a default blade colour, blade effect, blade style and ignition/retraction times to each specific sound font.

GHV3 installed sabers have the LEDs inside the blade as well – two strips of them back to back. These blades are referred to as ‘pixel blades, and feature in Xeno, GHV3 and Proffie installed products in our shop. This means you can get some very fancy blade effects happening, and you will get that awesome scrolling effect for ignition and retraction of the blade.

The blades can change colour, so you can pick almost any colour shade you want. Blade effects are far more extensive on the GHv3, with thousands of potential combinations possible. You can pre configure these in the config files on the SD card, or by using the built in saber editor and colour/blade effect change modes on the fly.

GHV3 features gesture controls, which can be enabled or disabled via the config file. It can even play music tracks.

So why GHV3 instead of Xeno?

There are a few differences. Firstly, GHV3 and Proffie both feature something called “accent swings”. These kick in when you swing the blade in a particular way, and are a special sound that plays over the regular swing to really enhance the immersion. Swing the saber harder or faster than usual, and you’ll hear the regular swing sound but also the accent swing underneath that.

The other main thing with GHV3 is how customisable it is. You have a lot more control over blade effects and styles in GHV3, and it’s reasonably simple to learn how to do it.

Pixel blade compatible sabers (Xeno, GH and Proffie) are not duelling capable however. If you want to duel, stick with simple, basic hilts, with EcoSwing installation only.

What’s XenoPixel

Xenopixel (commonly called “Xeno”) is the mid level installation option in our shop; a really good option for the non dueller who wants something that looks and sounds great, but doesn’t necessarily want the absolute bleeding edge of technology in their saber.

You can easily add more soundfonts to the already extensive list of them built in, and you can even configure the saber to set a default blade colour, blade effect, blade style and ignition/retraction times to each specific sound font – all from the config file located in the SET folder on the included SD card!

Unlike the Ecoswing option, Xeno installed sabers have the LEDs inside the blade – two strips of them back to back. These blades are referred to as ‘pixel blades, and feature in Xeno, GHV3 and Proffie installed products in our shop. This means you can get some very fancy blade effects happening, and you will get that awesome scrolling effect for ignition and retraction of the blade.

The blades can change colour, so you can pick almost any colour shade you want on the fly. In addition to colour changing, you have several blade effects and styles built in, which includes some special ignition effects, flickering blades, pulsing blades, fire blades and more.

There’s even a candystripe/rainbow blade effect (kids love it – don’t blame me when they follow you around at Halloween!)

Xeno features gesture controls, which can be enabled or disabled via the config file. It can even play music tracks, which you can load up on each individual sound font in their respective folders on the SD.

Pixel blade compatible sabers (Xeno, GH and Proffie) are not duelling capable however. If you want to duel, stick with simple, basic hilts, with EcoSwing installation only.

What’s Profie?

Proffie is probably the most powerful, most customisable soundboard for sabers ever made.

Like Xeno and GH, you can add more soundfonts to your saber, as well as customise the blade style to go with them – but there is a significant learning curve to editing a Proffie board.

Proffie installed sabers have the LEDs inside the blade as well – two strips of them back to back. These blades are referred to as ‘pixel blades, and feature in Xeno, GHV3 and Proffie installed products in our shop. This means you can get some very fancy blade effects happening, and you will get that awesome scrolling effect for ignition and retraction of the blade.

The blades can change colour, so you can pick almost any colour shade you want. Blade effects are almost limitless in their scope with customisation, though once again they are not a simple board to configure. Once you have learned the ropes though, you’ll be limited only by your imagination, programming skills (and RAM on the board!!)

Proffie features gesture controls, which can be enabled or disabled via the config. It can even play music tracks.

So why Proffie?

Like GHV3, Proffie features something called “accent swings”. These kick in when you swing the blade in a particular way, and are a special sound that plays over the regular swing to really enhance the immersion. Swing the saber harder or faster than usual, and you’ll hear the regular swing sound but also the accent swing underneath that.

The main reason to choose Proffie though, is the incredible amount of customisation you can do with it. Unlike GH and Xeno, which have particular constraints on blade styles and effects, you are really only limited by your imagination and programming ability with Proffie. There are plenty of resources online to help you develop blade styles though, so you don’t need to code them all from scratch yourself.

Pixel blade compatible sabers (Xeno, GH and Proffie) are not duelling capable however. If you want to duel, stick with simple, basic hilts, with EcoSwing installation only.

What installation option should I choose?

New to sabers? Check out our handy tips and info videos here!

Choosing the installation version in your saber really comes down to what your intending to use your saber for, and your budget

Think of the installation options on a sliding scale. The lower the cost, the simpler the electronics. The higher the cost, the more advanced, customisable and complex the installations are.

At the lower end, we have EcoSwing. Base lit (LED is inside the hilt and shines up into a hollow blade), pre set sound fonts, and no customisation beyond the presets available on the hilt. These are cheap, simple and durable.

At the top end we have Proffie and Golden Harvest. Fully customisable, more soundfonts (and the ability to add more), better blade effects and so much more. These are much more expensive, and absolutely should not be duelled with at all.

And in the middle of this scale, we have XenoPixel. Still reasonably cheap, but featuring the same type of pixel blade you find in the higher end boards. You can customise Xeno, but not quite as much as GH or Proffie. Again, you can’t duel with these ones as pixel blades shouldn’t be used for duelling. If you’re looking for a more immersive experience that looks and sounds the part without breaking the bank, Xeno is probably the way to go.

It’s really the “one size fits most” option in our shop.

What is the difference between “standard” and “heavy” grade for blades?

A standard grade blade is one with 2mm thick walls. These are the most common type we sell, and are well suited to
swinging, spinning and moderately tough dueling.

Heavy grade blades have 3mm thick walls. These are VERY solid and can withstand a lot of force. They are also capable
of inflicting serious damage if mishandled, and it is strongly recommended that you take care when using. Heavy grade
blades do have slightly less light transference.

Can I duel with your sabers?

Many of the hilts are duel worthy, but it pays to be aware of the differences between EcoSwing and Proffieboard based sabers.

Proffieboard is an incredibly advanced control system which can give you an amazingly accurate looking and sounding saber, but we do not suggest dueling with Proffieboard based sabers. Nor do we suggest dueling with XenoPixel installed sabers.

Why is that?

Simply, because we feel that these boards and the ‘pixel blades are not suited to a heavy impact situation. There are more things that can break on them (256 LEDs in the blade creates a lot of potential points for impact breakage)

On the other hand, the EcoSwing (or older Eco) based sabers are generally much better suited to repeated and heavy
impacts. The blades do not contain LEDs like the ‘Pixel style blades do (the LED is inside the hilt), and the electronics are far simpler – although they do still make your saber look and sound awesome.

One final note on dueling.

DO NOT duel with thin neck sabers. EVER.

We really can’t stress this enough. Thin neck sabers are not strong enough to take the impacts we see with heavy
dueling. This can mean at best your saber can break, and at worst someone may get injured.

In addition, although the Incendius Steel version is tough as nails, it is not a dueling hilt. The thing weighs over 1.2kg
empty. By the time you install electronics and a blade onto it, you’re looking at well over 1.5kg of impact force being
swung around. DO. NOT. DUEL. WITH. THE. STEEL. INCENDIUS.

Please see our link on SABER SAFETY here

Do your products have a warranty?

Absolutely. We offer a full year warranty on electronic components – including those built into a saber, as well as PCBs, neopixel connectors, electronic kits and neopixel blades.

Please reach out to us if you have any issues or concerns about a product you’ve purchased from us.

What are the sabers made from?

This depends on the hilt, but generally they are made almost entirely from aircraft grade aluminium.

We also have a steel hilt, our very own design – The Incendius Steel Edition. VERY heavy, and tough beyond words. If it’s too heavy for you, we do have an aluminium version as well!

In addition, all of our sabers use polycarbonate for the blades. A wonderfully tough plastic compound, which is able to take a beating and diffuse light for that authentic blade effect.

Some small parts of our sabers are made from various other elements.

Where are you based?

We are based in Rosewood QLD, and stock all of our sabers and other products here. We do not drop ship from the factory.

The reason we do this, is so we can generally catch any potential quality control issues before they go out to you, our
customers. We also make sure that the saber is packaged securely before sending it to you, and all of our products ship
by Australia Post – insured and tracked.

Of course nothing is perfect, so we offer a one year warranty on electronic components with all of our sabers, just in case
something fails.

Should something go wrong, simply message our Facebook page or email us at sales@aussabers.com.au

Do you make the sabers yourselves?

We partner with LGT in China, who manufacture the majority of the products we sell.

In addition to their range of products, we are also working on our own unique models of saber, several of which have already been launched – the AusSabers Incendius, Wanderer, Apprentice V2, Trainflex, Electris and Republic.

Recently, we have started to sell miscellaneous add ons and accessories for sabers from various other manufacturers.

We are proud to work closely with some other saber companies around the world – including Custom Darkwolf Sabers and VireSabers in the USA, and Argo Sabers in Canada.

We have also partnered with Ripper Blades in the USA, and have started to offer their unique products locally.

Finally, we are now also working with GreyScale Fonts in order to create a unique set of sounds for our own AusSabers hilt designs. These soundfonts will only be available preinstalled on our own unique saber models in Australia!

Do you make custom sabers?

We do not make custom sabers or do saber conversions at this time.

Shipping

AusSabers will endeavour to ship your order as soon as possible from the point of purchase, provided the stock is available at the time (backorders will take longer and these will be discussed with you via email after your purchase).

All items are shipped insured and tracked and require a signature on delivery.

To minimise potential issues with delivery, please always ensure your details are complete and accurate when placing an order with us. You must provide us with an address that is able to accept deliveries for you, an email address that we can contact you on, and a phone number.

Dispatch from our office in Queensland is normally done within 2 business days after purchase, but if there is any delay to this, we will contact you directly via email.

Please check your junk mail prior to contacting us to ask about your shipment/tracking information, as sometimes your email client will incorrectly flag our correspondence as spam. Once your order is processed you’ll receive tracking advice via Australia Post and our website systems.  It is important to ensure your email address is entered accurately on your order, or you will not receive an invoice or shipment advice.

Shipping is via Australia Post and is subject to their delivery time frames. Please note that the usual express shipping times are not currently being guaranteed by Australia Post, and there may be some delays due to their network. Normally they will deliver within 2 weeks but please be aware that this is subject to Australia Post network conditions and the delivery postcode.   For more information on current delivery timeframes please see the link here:

https://auspost.com.au/service-updates/domestic-delivery-updates

In the event of a warranty claim, AusSabers will arrange return shipping of the item in question for repair or replacement. Please note that for non-warranty issues, you will be solely responsible for the cost of shipping. See our Warranties and Refunds policy (located at https://aussabers.com.au/warranty-and-refund-information/) for more information.

AusSabers currently only ships to addresses within Australia.

This Shipping policy forms part of our Terms & Conditions, located at https://aussabers.com.au/terms-and-conditions/